Town Historian - Ronald Belczak
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York State History Page

THE
GENESEE
COUNTRY
A VIEW OF THE PRESENT SITUATION OF THE WESTERN PARTS OF THE
STATE OF
NEW YORK
,
CALLED THE
GENESEE
COUNTRY
In which The Situation, Dimensions, Civil Divisions, Soil, Produce, Lakes,
and Rivers, Curiosities, Climates, Navigation, Trade and Manufactures,
Population, and other interesting Matters, relative to that Country are
impartially described.
Frederick
Town:
Printed
at the Herald Press
FOR
THE AUTHOR
1804
PREFACE
The
writer of this Description has chiefly endeavored to give a plain and
perspicuous narration of the subject, and it is hoped that imperfections in the
style may be overlooked by the indulgent reader. Several gentlemen from
Maryland
, now residing in
Genesee
. by whom it has been perused, have considered it as candid and correct, and
have accordingly authorized their names to be mentioned; among whom are, Messrs.
Henry Brothers, Abraham Simmons, Elias Cost, and Benjamin Parish, from Frederick
county, and Mr. Sheckles from Prince George county.
DESCRIPTION. &c.
The
Country to which the name of Genesee is given is the most westerly part of the
State of
New York
. Its length from east to west is about 120 miles, and its breadth from 80 to 90
miles, containing nearly 10,000 square miles, and equal in size to three-fourths
of the State of
Maryland
. It is bounded on the south mostly by the 42 degree of latitude, which divides
it from
Pennsylvania
; on the west by part of
Pennsylvania
called Presque Isle, lake Erie. and the Straights of Niagara; on the north by
lake Ontario; and on the east by a line running nearly parallel to Seneca lake,
dividing it from the Military Lands and Tioga county. Its nearest distance to
Albany is 190 miles, to New York 260miles, to Philadelphia 250 miles, to
Baltimore 270 miles,* to Pittsburg by water nearly 100 miles, and to Montreal by
water nearly 300 miles.
Its
name is derived from the river
Genesee
, and signifies in the Indian language a pleasant valley. In the year 1789 a
considerable part of this country was first purchased from the Indians and the
State of New York by Messrs. Oliver Phelps and Nathaniel Gorham; but little was
done to effect a settlement of it until the year 1792, when a large tract was
purchased by a gentleman of eminence in England, who formed plan of settlement,
which has since been conducted by Charles Williamson, Esq. with perseverance and
success.
*The
distance from Maryland to Genesee is as follows: to Carlisle 35 miles; to
Juniatta 27 miles; to Milton 44
miles; to Muncey 15 miles; to Towanda 48 miles; to Tioga Point 16 miles; to
Newtown 20 miles; to Seneca lake 22
miles; in all 222 miles.
Nearly
one half of this country situated nearest to the southern boundary is hilly,
broken land, intermixed however with many fertile parts.
The face of the other parts, beyond this tract, is generally even, a
considerable part, on the east of
Genesee
River
, consisting of low ridges of easy ascent and descent, and on the west of
Genesee
River
the country is more flat and level. On
both sides of
Genesee
river, particularly on the west, are large openings which are thinly timbered,
are in some parts very fertile, and could easily be put under cultivation.
On the east side of Genesee river the country in many parts makes a
pleasant and flourishing appearance, the settlers having a prevailing custom of
building adjoining the public roads, and cultivating lands nearest them.
From Canandarqua to
Genesee
river, a distance of twenty five miles, the country has the most flourishing
appearance, that part being earliest settled, and abounds with very substantial
improvements which are seldom exceeded in any country in the pleasantness of
their appearance for the same distance.
The
quality of the soil is various, but in the better or lower part of the country
before mentioned a rich loamy soil is the most common, and it is covered on the
top with a loose black mould from six to ten inches thick.
This part of the country is timbered mostly with the sugar maple, beech,
lyn, here called basswood, oak, and elm; and the hilly parts are generally
timbered with oak. Where the sugar
maple and basswood are most common the land is generally esteemed best for
grass, and probably for grain, and is experienced to be durable; And lands which
produce mostly beech timber are considered as generally clayey, wet and cold.
A considerable proportion of the better part of the country is timbered
with oak, and lands on which it is of a large growth are by many esteemed the
most durable, although at first not productive of as good crops as maple lands,
and harder in tillage. Grain is
frequently put into the ground without ploughing, the ground being only broke
with a heavy harrow, and frequently yields with this cultivation upwards of
twenty bushels on an acre.
But
although the growth of timber usually denotes the sort of soil on which it
grows, yet it frequently happens that the soil varies materially in different
places where the same sort of timber grows, and it is observed in some parts
that the growth of the young timber is of a different sort from the old.
Lands on which the growth of timber almost entirely consists of maple,
basswood, and beech, appear to be attended with a scarcity of timber most
suitable for fences; although a quantity of oak, elm and ash, is usually found
on land of this description, it is said sufficient for the purposes of fencing
and building; and basswood rails when the bark is taken off are tolerably
durable. A considerable part of the
country has a rock of limestone sunk some feet under the surface of the earth.
The
most useful sorts of timber are, the sugar maple, oak, pine which grows in some
parts, yellow poplar, here called whitewood, wild cherry, white and black
walnut, hickory, wild plum and dogwood. Of
shrubs and plants the most noted are sassafras, wild hops, fox grapes in some
parts, ginseng, sarsaparilla, snakeroot, spikenard, mandrakes in taste and
flavour much resembling a pine apple, strawberries, whortleberries, cranberries
which are used for preserves, and wild gooseberries.
Fruit, as apples. peaches &c. grows to much advantage, and in some
parts are orchards that were raised by the Indians, but fruit trees were mostly
destroyed in the expedition of general Sullivan against the Indians in the
revolutionary war. This country is
very favorable for the raising of grass, the uplands usually producing from a
ton and a half to two tons an acre, and sometimes three tons.
It is uncommonly favorable for wheat, of which from twenty to twenty five
bushels are generally raised on an acre, but it has been known to yield forty
and frequently thirty bushels, an acre, and the gain is generally large and of a
good quality. Corn generally grows
to the amount of thirty bushels on an acre, and in some instances on the flats
of
Genesee
River
, and of Mud creek, it is said to the extent of seventy and eighty bushels an
acre. Corn is less in the size of
the ear then in
Maryland
, but grows closer, and a bushel of it is several pounds heavier and more
substantial in quality.
Rye
commonly yields a less quantity than wheat; oats, buckwheat, and other sorts of
grain are very productive, and flax and hemp grow very luxuriant.
Tobacco is raised of a good quality, but as yet not in large quantities;
a gentleman from
Maryland
has raised some thousand plants of it this last season, and it is believed that
it might be advantageously raised for market.
Maple sugar is manufactured in such quantities that some of the
inhabitants make from five hundred to upwards of a thousand pounds of it in a
season. A tree produces by boiling
down the sap, from two to five pounds of sugar, and it is made near the end of
winter, when but little of any other work is done on a farm. The sap of the
maple also affords a supply of vinegar, and excellent molasses.
The
cheapness and fertility of land in this country, together with its easy
communications to different markets, and the healthiness of the climate in
general, are advantages not possessed in an equal degree in other new
settlements, and render this country an object worthy of attention to those who
wish their estates in a few years to increase in extent and in value.
The price of the best lands not improved on the east of Genesee river is
commonly from two to four dollars an acre, and one hundred acres having twenty
or thirty acres improved, and a house and barn, are sold from eight to twenty
dollars an acre. On the west of
Genesee
River
the best unimproved lands sell from one and a half to two dollars an acre.
Lands that are now selling at four dollars an acre, were sold twelve
years ago at only the same number of shillings an acre, and the advance of their
value in the course of 10 or 15 years hence will most probably be very
considerable. A farm may probably be
purchased in the cheapest manner by buying land without any improvement. Three
men with a yoke of oxen will commonly clear and fence, and sow or plant ten
acres in four or five weeks, and also build, a comfortable house; and such
improvement may be hired at the rate of ten or twelve dollars an acre, and fifty
dollars for a log house. If An
improvement is made in the early part of spring, a sufficient supply of corn and
spring-wheat may be raised the first season for a family; & cattle may be
well kept even in the woods. There
are many instances of cattle being kept throughout the winters only with
browsing or eating the tops of basswood and some other sorts of trees cut down
for them, al though hay may be purchased cheap and in abundance.
Of
wild animals the most remarkable are bears and wolves, which abound most in the
hilly parts; also deer, and elks a large species of deer weighing five or six
hundred pounds, and a few panthers. Sheep
are sometimes destroyed; but as a liberal reward is allowed for killing wolves
and panthers, they become scarce as the population of the country increases.
Squirrels are so numerous in some years as considerably to injure corn,
and upwards of 2,000 of them have sometimes been killed in the compass of six
miles in one day which is appointed for that purpose by the inhabitants: the
most common kinds of them are the black, and the red, the grey coloured being
very scarce. Of reptiles the most
remarkable is the rattlesnake, which is seen mostly in the hilly parts.
Large numbers of pigeons frequent the country in spring and fall, of
which a great many are caught by nets and by shooting, and beds are sometimes
made of their feathers. There are
partridges and quails; and wild fowl and fish are abundant in
Lake
Ontario
and other lakes, and in the rivers.
In
reference to horses, those which have been raised in this country are very good.
It has been supposed some years ago that this country is unfavorable to
horses brought from other States, when put to feed on the natural pasture and
herbage in the woods; but it is asserted that when they are well kept, and have
salt sometimes given them, they are than as healthy as elsewhere.
Oxen grow uncommonly large, usually measuring from six and a half to
seven feet round the shoulders, and are mostly used for work, being very
manageable and perhaps most suitable for working on new lands.
A larger breed of horned cattle is now raising.
Sheep and hogs are very thriving. The
growth of cattle is rapid from the abundance of the herbage natural to the
woods, and the goodness of improved pasture; a cow commonly bringing forth a
calf at the age of twenty four months, and oftentimes of twenty months.
Several
mineral springs have been found particularly of sulphur, one of which 13 miles
northwest from Geneva is of a sufficient size and fall for an overshot mill, and
its scent is conveyed by the wind nearly two miles.
This spring issues out of the ground in different branches, and adjoining
to it are two large beds or bogs of sulphur, into which a stick may be thrust
upwards of six feet deep. A public
house has lately been opened near it by a gentleman from
Maryland
, which is much resorted by company either from motives of pleasure, or the
medical qualities of the spring. A
spring is said to be discovered near
Canandarqua
Lake
, the water running from it forming n crust of pure allum on the rocks.
A salt spring is discovered west from Genesee river, which is said to be
sufficient for a large supply of salt; but the inhabitants are at present
plentifully supplied with that valuable article from the salt springs in the
military 1ands, at the distance of from 14 to 40 miles, and it is sold at the
works of Onondaga at two dollars a barrel containing five bushels, and sometimes
cheaper, and is exchanged near Geneva at a dollar a bushel, for grain.
Near the head of
Genesee
River
there is a remarkable spring, the water issuing from it being covered with a
sort of oil called by the Indian Seneca oil, which is excellent for wounds and
other uses, and will flame upon fire being applied to it.
As
to curiosities, the falls of Niagara and of Genesee river are very remarkable;
those of Niagara being the greatest curiosity of the kind in the world, falling
157 feet perpendicularly where the river is three quarters of a mile broad, and
is sometimes heard at the distance of upwards of twenty miles.
There are many remains of ancient fortifications, of which a chain
appears to extend from the lower end of
lake
Ontario
to the west of the
Ohio
. These forts afford much
speculation concerning their origin, but the most probable conclusion is that
they were erected by the French on their first settlement in
America
, nearly 200 years ago.
This
country is considered as indifferently watered in reference to springs and
running water; but it is expected that the clearing of lands will cause a
greater plenty of that article, which at present runs frequently under ground by
the hollowness which is occasioned by the roots of trees; and a great part of it
is now consumed by the nourishment of timber.
Water however is readily found by digging wells commonly 15 or 20 feet in
depth, and is not more scarce or worse in quality than in many of the most
populous parts of
Maryland
and
Virginia
. The practice of the inhabitants of
building adjoining the public roads often occasions too great a distance from
springs, and they might frequently be conveniently supplied with water, were
they to build on other parts of their farms.
There is however n considerable abundance of streams for mills, inasmuch
as the greater part of the inhabitants are not farther than a few miles distant
from mills which are plentifully supplied with water in all seasons.
The
following are the principal lakes and rivers:
Lake
Ontario
, by which this country is bounded on the north,
is about 180 miles in length, and about 60 miles in breadth.
Its shore is indented with many creeks and inlets, which form excellent
harbors for boats and sloops, of which last sort and of brigs there are about
ten sail on this lake; and the lands adjoining it are of an excellent quality.
Lake Erie
, part of which forms the western boundary, is about 300 miles in length
and 50 in breadth. From this lake ,
are easy communications to the
Ohio river
.
Seneca Lake
is 35 miles in length and from 2 to 3 miles in breadth.
It stretches in a direction nearly from south to north, forming a
handsome sheet of wholesome water, being of a great depth, and never freezes
over in winter; and in summer a bottle being let under the surface a few feet
draws up water pure and cool. This
lake is navigated by a sloop and a schooner, besides boats; and by its outlet
boats navigate to Seneca or Oswego river, and from thence to the neighborhood of
Albany, where there is a good market for the produce of the country, and by
Oswego river boats navigate into lake Ontario to Canada, and to Montreal &c.
by the river St. Lawrence:--out of lake Ontario also, the navigation may be
extended, with the intervention of short carrying places, many hundred miles by
the great lakes of Canada, and to the waters of the Ohio and Mississippi.
From the head of Seneca lake there is a carrying place to Tioga river, to
which considerable quantities of grain and other articles are transported, and
down Tioga river are conveyed in the distance of 20 miles to Susquehanna river,
in the neighborhood of which are several markets, or to Baltimore.
Canandarqua
lake is situated 15 miles west from
Seneca lake
, is about 25 miles in length, and nearly two miles wide.
Crooked
lake and
Mud
Lake
are situated on the west side of
Seneca Lake
, and Honeyoy and Hemlock lakes west from Canandarqua lake.
Chataughqua
Lake
is situated near
Lake Erie
. These lakes are from 6 to 15 miles in length, and their outlets afford
excellent mill seats.
Genesee
River
rises near the
Pennsylvania
line, and running a north easterly course of above 100 miles, empties into
lake
Ontario
. It is situated 40 miles west from
Seneca Lake
, is navigable for boats nearly fifty miles, and has a carrying place at falls
six miles from its mouth. On this
river are very extensive rich flats, from a half mile to nearly two miles wide,
and are overflowed in the spring season, which occasions agues and other bilious
complaints among the inhabitants. In some parts the flats are cleared of timber
to a considerable extent.
Mud
creek rises east from
Genesee
River
, and running a north easterly course, is joined by the outlet of
Canandarqua
Lake
at
Lyons
, 15 miles north of
Geneva
, from whence it is navigated by boats to Seneca river, and from thence to the
neighborhood of
Albany
or into
lake
Ontario
. On Mud creek are very extensive and fertile flats, which are mostly overflowed
in spring.
Cohocton
River
rises near the head waters of
Genesee
river, and running a south easterly course, empties into Tioga river.
From this river and other branches of Tioga river, arks carrying twelve
hundred bushels, together with boats and rafts navigate to Susquehanna river,
from whence they proceed to markets in the lower parts of Pennsylvania and in
Maryland, every spring and frequently in the fall, and boats continue to
navigate up and down till midsummer.*
*An
insurance company in
Baltimore
now insure produce which is transported down Susquehanna river from
Newtown
on Tioga river, 22 miles from the head of Seneca lake, and an agent is
appointed by the company, who resides at
Newtown
.
Alleghany
River
rises near the southern boundary, running a westerly course of nearly 100 miles
till it enters
Pennsylvania
, where it runs in a southerly course to
Pittsburg
on the
Ohio river
. It is said to be navigable by arks and boats in the spring season, from a
considerable distance in this country to the
Ohio
.
French
creek rises near the lower end of Lake Erie, and runs in a southerly course
nearly 100 miles to its junction with
Alleghany
River
in
Pennsylvania
. Near its head waters at an old fort formerly in the possession of the French,
called LeBeuf, there is a carrying place of 15 miles to lake Erie, and by this
route quantities of salt are conveyed from lake Erie down French creek to
Alleghany river, and from thence to the Ohio; the distance from lake Erie to the
Ohio being less than 150 miles. This
communication was used by the French, before the taking of
Fort
Pitt
from them by the English in 1758, & it is probable that by it goods might
be conveyed from
New York
or from
Albany
to
Lake
Ontario
and Lake Erie and from thence be transported to
Pittsburg
at less expense than by any other communication.
The lands in the neighborhood of this
creek are reported to be remarkably good.
Tonnawanto
creek rises west from
Genesee
River
, runs a westerly course, and falls into the straights of
Niagara
; it is navigable by boats about 20 miles.
Buffalo
creek rises south from Tonnawanto creek, runs a
westerly course, emptying itself into the straights of
Niagara
. The lands on this creek are
remarkably good in quality.
Delaware
River runs south from
Buffalo
creek, in a westerly course, and empties into
Lake Erie
.
The
climate appears to be variable, which is probably caused by the neighborhood of
the immense bodies of water contained in the lakes by which this country is
partly bounded. This also is
probably the cause of the mildness of the climate in summer and winter; for it
appears reasonable to conclude that the air which passes over extensive bodies
of water which freezes not in winter and is nearly of the same degree of
coldness in summer as in winter, - must be more uniform in its temperature than
it would be if the air passed over land. The
mildness of the climate of Great Britain is ascribed by geographers to a like
cause, that it is surrounded by the sea, which occasions the summers and winters
in that country to be more temperate than it would otherwise be.
Geographers also assert that countries situated west from the Alleghany
mountains as the Genesee country is, possess a milder climate than those on the
east side of those mountains, which are situated in a latitude as far north.
The heat of summer in this country is accordingly moderate, and the
nights are so cool as always to admit of sleeping under a blanket comfortably;
and the winters are considerably less severe than in the neighborhood of
Albany
and in
Massachusetts
, which are situated as far north.
In
most parts the climate is healthy, particularly considering this as a newly
settled country, of which only an inconsiderable part is yet improved; though in
the neighborhood of marshes and stagnated waters the inhabitants are subject to
agues and other bilious complaints. Once
in three or four years, as is the case in most countries, it has been sickly in
many parts. The fall of 1801 was
probably as sickly a season as any one since the earliest settlement, which is
imputed to an uncommon wetness of the weather, occasioning much stagnated water.
The prevailing sickness which was the bilious fever, proved however not
very mortal to the sick, and the number of deaths was most probably not more
than one for every two hundred inhabitants.
Trees
usually put forth leaves the earliest sorts in the first week of May, and oak
and other later sorts near the 20th of that month.
Corn is planted from the l5th to the 25th and by some near the first of
May.
Rye
begins to ripen and hay is begun to be cut near the 4th of July, and near the
l5th of July wheat harvest is begun. Water
commonly begins to be frozen near the first week of October, and snow commonly
falls near the 20th of November; but cattle are sometimes kept in pasture until
January, and on the flats of
Genesee
nearly the whole winter. Snow
commonly lies about nine inches deep, and seldom exceeds 12 inches.
In the beginning of the year 1800 snow fell in most places about three
feet deep, but there is no other instance known of so great a fall of it.
The coldness of winters is probably not more severe though more constant
here than in Maryland near the upper parts; and the longer continuance of snow
in this country, besides its usefulness to grain, renders the use of sleys very
common and convenient for the transportation of produce to market, a pair of
horses traveling with thirty bushels at the rate of 35 or 40 miles in day.
The winters usually break up about the middle of March.
This
country is divided into three counties, viz.
Steuben
,
Ontario
, and
Genesee
, which are subdivided into townships 6 miles square.
The
county
of
Ontario
alone contains about 18,000 inhabitants, in the bounds of 45 miles square, and
the others about 6,000 inhabitants. The
number of voters in Ontario and Genesee counties, in spring 1803, for a senator
to the state legislature, by which an idea may be formed of the population of
each township, is as follows: Canandarqua 81, Augusta 55, Pittstown 111,
Bloomfield 245, Eastown 89, Char1estown 57, Bristol 110, Phelps 73, Williamson
33, Sodus 19, Northfield 81, Palmyra 82, Farmington 38, Hartford 60, Sparta 45,
Middletown 63, Jerusalem 11, Seneca 109, Genesee 109, Vernon 71, Northampton 63,
Southampton 76, Batavia 151, and Leicester 45.
The whole number of votes is 1867, of which 1,059 are denominated federal
and 807 republican.
Canandarqua
is the principal town in this country, and the chief town of
Ontario
County
; it contains about fifty dwelling houses, which are generally well built, and
some of them are elegant. The
principal street rises by a very gradual ascent, stretching upwards of a mile in
a straight line from the north end of the lake of the same name, and is about
fifty yards in breadth, making a very pleasant appearance.
The houses have generally a lot of land under cultivation belonging to
each, and many of its inhabitants are in wealthy circumstances.
It has a convenient courthouse, in which public worship is performed by a
minister of the church of England persuasion; a handsome gaol, a large academy
lately finished which is said to be well provided for, about 8 well supplied
stores, in which goods are sold on very moderate terms, several considerable
distilleries, a large tanyard in which is manufactured a considerable quantity
of leather, a market for butcher meat, several good inns, and a printing office
in which have been printed nearly 1,000 papers weekly.
Geneva
contains about 40 dwelling houses, and is
handsomely situated near the outlet of
Seneca Lake
. It has a large and elegant hotel
kept in the best manner and other inns, two schoolhouses, one of which is
occasionally occupied for public worship by a Presbyterian minister, several
well supplied stores, 3 considerable distilleries, a brewery, and a market for
butcher meat of which about 1,000 pounds is killed weekly.
It is a place of considerable business, and from hence large quantities
of wheat and other produce are sent to the head of
Seneca Lake
. From whence it is transported to
Tioga
River
, and thence to markets down Susquehanna River; and by the outlet of Seneca Lake
wheat, flour, potash, and other productions are conveyed to
Albany
.
Bath
is the chief town of
Steuben
county, and is situated on the
Cohocton
River
. It consists of about 30 dwelling
houses, And from hence a number of arks carrying 1,200 bushels, boats and rafts
navigate by
Tioga
River
down Susquehanna River, every spring and sometimes in fall; and flour has been
transported from this place to
Baltimore
at less expense than a dollar a barrel.
Batavia
is the chief town of
Genesee
county and is situated 30 miles west from
Genesee
River
. It contains about 30 dwelling
houses built within a few years, a handsome courthouse, and is rapidly
improving.
The
most noted place besides these is
fort
Niagara
, situated at the head of
Lake
Ontario
, which is remarkable as an ancient fortification and one of our principal
posts.
The
manners and customs of the inhabitants are different and resemble those in the
several states from which they have emigrated; the greater part being from the
New England
states. Between
Geneva
and Canandarqua are many families from
Pennsylvania
.
New Jersey
and
Maryland
; and there are several families from
England
and
Scotland
. The inhabitants are generally an
industrious and civil people, and instances of quarreling at public meetings and
other places are uncommon and considered to be disreputable.
There are but few black people, and those that are born in this State are
by law allowed their freedom after the age of 28; but those from other states
continue as slaves during life. The
blacks have an attachment to this country, as they live well and have an example
of industry from the settlers; and their work is perhaps not so laborious as in
Maryland
, the heavier sorts of work being chiefly performed by oxen.
There are but few ministers of the gospel yet settled, but schools are
numerous and well provided for.
A
turnpike road is now completed from
Albany
to Canandarqua at a great expense, which is supported by tolls, and renders
traveling and the carriage of produce to market much easier when the rivers are
low. Wagons now frequently carry
loads of fourteen barrels of flour to
Albany
, and return with an equal weight, and sometimes carry two tons, going and
returning in about fourteen days. A
mail stage runs from Canandarqua to
Albany
twice a week.
Trade
is yet in its infancy and has much increased within a few years.
Grain is sent in considerable quantities to markets down Susquehanna
River, and with the addition of flour, potash & other produce, to
Albany
; and a considerable quantity of grain has for some years past been transported
by sleys in winter from the west of
Albany
. Whiskey is distilled in
considerable quantities, and mostly consumed in the country, & is also
transported to
Canada
and down Susquehanna. The produce
of the country is received by storekeepers in payment for goods, and with horses
and cattle, also for land. Droves of
cattle are sent to different markets, and a considerable number of cattle, and
other provisions, are used at the markets of Canandarqua & Geneva, & by
settlers immigrating into the country. Cattle
commonly sell for money at a good price, and as this country is very favorable
for raising them, they will probably become the principle article for market;
many being of the opinion
that the raising of stock is more profitable as well as easier than any mode of
farming. The following is a list of
the prices of articles and the rates of wages since January 1801: